OK, so the wind is a problem, here in the Herault.

The oysters are not a problem. They are a blessing. A gift of nature.

Find a map of the region, and note how close we are to the etangs — areas of sea water enclosed (or nearly so) by land.

So, when we decided to go to the little bayside town of Meze, a 15-minute drive from the rolling hills of Nizas … our huitre (oyster) lovers knew things were going to go well. Very well.

A whole row of seafood restos, most of them focused on oysters, ring the docks of Meze, and it becomes simply a matter of choosing the one you prefer.

In this case, we chose La Maison du Pecheur –House of the Fisherman — because it looked homey and basic and because we had been there before and enjoyed it.

Our two Oyster People ordered a dozen Bouziques oysters, which come in convoluted shells, of a medium size, and were described as “plump and briny”. (Briny is good. “They were fresh; they tasted of the sea.”)

Cost for a dozen: 10 euros, or about $13, at the moment. Which is inexpensive, I am told. So, fresh and plump and inexpensive … can’t beat that.

(A confession: I just can’t deal with oysters. The idea of prying open a shell and slurping out the slippery, raw contents … I can’t go there. And I have eaten snails, and frogs’ legs, steak-and-kidney pie, foie gras, tete de veau, beef cheeks, Dodger Dogs … but can’t bring myself to eat oysters. That’s why I have to ask others what their oysters are like, and they happily tell me after their 5-10 minutes of bliss.)

They were very happy with their oysters, thank you. And equally happy with the bouillabaisse-for-two that comprised their main dish.

The other two of us had the dorade (sea bream) and the tuna (thon grille) … and watched the oyster lovers do their thing.

Oysters are all over the Etang de Thau, farmed in parcs (beds) and happily slurped up by oyster-aholics.

We were in the Herault for nine days, and we had two suppers in Meze, and brought in oysters to eat at home on two other days (above).

Said one oyster lover: “They are something you could eat every day.”

Said another: “You can never have enough.”