And not finding any. Certainly not much.
There is crime in this city. Has to be. Among 1.26 million people on Hong Kong Island, something bad must be going down just about every hour of every day.
But I haven’t seen it. And it’s not as if I’ve been spending all my time in the posh neighborhoods.
I have walked the mile-plus from the office, in North Point, to the apartment in Tin Hau, at 11 p.m. … and never felt vaguely threatened. I strolled through the Red Light district of Wan Chai … without any alarm.
I have seen women, alone, along that same dark and largely deserted stretch … and they seem completely unconcerned, as well.
I haven’t seen nor even heard of a purse-snatcher, a mugger or a robber.
They had a sensational murder case here that got lots of attention … an expat woman killing her expat hubby … but I’m beginning to wonder if the trial was so big because it was the only murder trial.
I am fairly astonished at the lack of crime here, or even the sense of it.
It’s a hard slog even to find examples of second-tier crime, even. There is zero graffiti on the island, very few examples of people intoxicated in public, practically no transients sleeping under bridges.
There just isn’t. And it confuses me, because not everyone on the island is wealthy. Quite a few people get by, but not a lot more than that.
I asked a few colleagues, the other night, while having a couple of beers at The Fringe, a rooftop bar in the Central district, right next to the Foreign Correspondents’ Club.
“Where,” I asked, “do you go to get mugged?”
They laughed. “Do you want to get mugged?”
Then we talked about crime. And these folks, some of whom have been here for years, said the only crime out there is …
1. Gangs fighting among gangs. Though where they carry out this warfare, I couldn’t begin to tell you. Perhaps across the strait, in Kowloon or the New Territories?
2. People flipping out and committing havoc on relatives. Which makes some sense, given how tight everyone’s living conditions are. But still … I haven’t noticed any stories on it, since I’ve been here.
3. Kids who have seen “too many violent cartoons” doing … well, something. Shouting, maybe?
Hong Kong isn’t Eden. I don’t imagine Eden was 88 degrees and seriously humid nine days out of 10. Adam and Eve lived there alone, not with another 1.2 million people in a narrow strip of land.
But it is a place that appears, to me, to be remarkably safe. With limited police presence, little or no violent crime, women unafraid to walk alone at night.
That seems remarkable, in the 21st century. Maybe, again, it goes back to the strong sense of social discipline here.
But in looking for crime in HK … I have failed miserably.
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