“Marais” means swamp, in French (perhaps related to “marsh” or “morass” in English?), and because the ground was less-than-solid, in previous centuries, Le Marais was one of the last parts of the central city to be developed.

Now, curiously, it is one of the oldest parts of Paris, with the sort of narrow, short, non-Haussmannian streets nearly wiped out in the 19th-century overhaul of the capital. The one that gave us the wide boulevards radiating outward from key monuments.

After a week north of Bastille, we moved today to the Marais, downsizing significantly. As we knew we would, considering this is one of the most expensive neighborhoods in the city.

But it’s probably worth it.

The Marais is an unusual part of the city. Very compact, very self-aware, almost auto-free and home to the city’s Jewish as well as gay communities. The place is also touristy, which can be fun — as long as you are a tourist, of course.

We have been in this neighborhood before, but because we wanted Drew and Britt to be able to move around in a couple of different neighborhoods during their stay here … here we are again, in a pedestrian cul de sac still known as the Rue de Tresor — even though it is only about 100 yards long.

We are staying in the last building on the left of the street, a place that went up in about 1902, according to our landlord, who said the place has been in his family since 1912, when his great uncle was already living here.

The apartment is on the third floor and is about half the size of the very modern place we just left. But it is also very French in a 19th century sort of way. Decorative molding in the corners of every room, a rosace (from which chandeliers are meant to hang) in the center of ceilings in three rooms. Rustic plumbing (including a chain-yank toilet and a hand-held shower head) in the bathroom and kitchen (including utensils in a shallow cabinet built into a wall), a fireplace (no longer functional) in the living room and both bedrooms … and parquet floors.

It is a bit snug. Yes. But this is how people lived (and liked it) for a century.

Here is a link with photos to the website where we found the place.

It certainly is convenient. The cafe Les Philosophes is about 75 yards away — as is the busy Rue Vieille du Temple. My favorite bakery in Paris — and the city has hundreds of them — is about 200 yards off.

This is a good launching point for touring the city. The No. 1 metro line is about a five-minute walk, and that is the line that takes you to many of the city’s most popular sights.

We also are lucky to have two of our Paris pals, Irv and Iris, living directly below us. At their request, we are canceling the clogging demonstration we had planned for tomorrow night.