Interesting concept, a major Christian holiday in a profoundly Muslim nation.

There are times here when you think you might be the only Christian (or non-Muslim, for that matter) in any given crowd in this city. If you’re among the local Arabs or the Pakistanis, Bangladeshis, Indonesians … all Muslims. And it seems as if most of the Indians here in the UAE come from India’s Muslim minority.

And, unlike Hong Kong, where I spent Christmas Eve 2008, the man in the street here is usually religious. Often observant. Go-to-the-mosque-every-day pious, mention-God-in-conversation pious.

So,  yes, a little odd to be out of step with the dominant culture, at Christmas.

But I love Christmas Eve candlelight services, and I knew I would be at one, in Abu Dhabi, no matter what measures had to be taken.

It worked out, in a veddy British way.

There are churches in Abu Dhabi. But they also are fairly circumspect about what they do and where they are.

The buildings are not shaped in the traditional cross … they don’t display crosses above or outside churches. No steeples.

But they are here. Actually, the three main (only?) church buildings in Abu Dhabi are in the same big block, about a 10-minute walk from where I now live. A “community” church that seems American-oriented and has a big new building. A Catholic church that apparently runs Christmas Eve masses on the hour in various languages, most certainly including Tagalog. (Filipinos representing, by far, the most Christians in the country.)

And the oldest church in Abu Dhabi, St. Andrew’s, an Anglican (Episcopalian) church. Which is what I plumped for, after some consideration.

So, we walked over to the next big block … and there they were, three churches almost right in a row, with St. Andrew’s almost touching a mosque.

The sanctuary was unusually plain, especially considering it was Anglican. No stained glass. Very little art on the walls of a square room.

But it was a big crowd, for the 11:30 p.m. service. The sanctuary eventually was filled with, at least 200 people. Maybe 300.

And talk about multi-ethnic. Mostly British, but more than a little Indian, African, Caribbean. Even American.

It was a candlelight service from the get-go. The rails for each pew had recessed spots in them for placing candles,  and they were all lit as we came in. Electrical lighting was very muted. Almost non-existent. It made for a very warm and intimate atmosphere.

The minister, Clive Windebank, welcomed everyone and ran a nice, well-organized, music-heavy service.

As is so often the case for Americans, I was nearly mesmerized by Windebank’s elegant English accent, crisp elocution and almost theatrical speaking style.

I also liked that he used the King James Bible for the Luke chapter 2 reading. “And they were sore afraid.” Lyrical. No translation compares to it. Not for that chapter.

It was a singing congregation, too. People really into it.  I think Britons are just more musical — in a tuneful sense — than are Americans. I don’t know what this is about, exactly, but England certainly seems to generate more talented singers per capita than we do.

My only complaint … they used unfamiliar (to me) tunes for “Away in the Manger” as well as “O Little Town of Bethlehem.” And at least two hymns were sung that I had never heard, let alone sung — “Once in Royal David’s City” and “Love Came Down at Christmas.” The entire canon of British Christmas hymns clearly didn’t cross the Atlantic.

But I liked it. I almost felt like a British subject for 75 minutes there. It struck me what a peculiar experience it must have been, for the 150 years or so of their world empire … to have all these British expatriates all over the globe and gathering in these exotic spots to celebrate the ways of the Isles back home.

Got to give them credit for running so much of the world for so long and not doing a half-bad job of it.

One semi-memorable aspect of the service … was what seemed to me a significant fire risk for women wearing Indian-style clothing — which includes big, flowing (and thin) scarves. Just dragging one of those over one of the candles mounted on the rails of pews … well, it seemed like it could happen. But didn’t.

Up till tonight, this was by far the least Christmassy Christmas I’ve lived through. The UAE certainly doesn’t pay much attention to the holiday, but it also doesn’t seem to embrace the concept of “chance to sell some merchandise,” either.

So, no outward signs, no music in malls, no bombardment of advertising, away from home … Christmas just snuck up on me. And almost past me.

The service tonight put me in the mood. The night before Christmas. Just in time.

I may be back in St. Andrew’s a year from tonight. Inshallah, as the Arabs would say.